Tendrils/Cave B Winery @ SageCliffe & Chef Shauna Scriver
June 8th, 2009
Its not that Cave B isn’t gorgeous… because it is. It absolutely, positively, truly is. It shares a view with the Gorge Amphitheater and if you’ve ever been out for a concert you know what to expect. The panorama resembles a watercolored backdrop… I feel compelled to touch it. Rows upon rows of impeccably manicured grape vines lead up to the modern buildings that house the restaurant, inn, and spa. For some reason, I was caught off guard by the luxury of it. To me, Eastern Washington is this state’s own Wild West…I think cowboys, rodeo, dry heat, cacti, wild horses and farm communities..well, Cave B quickly dismantled my outlook. Ill just start out by saying that this is not my kind of place. Not that it wasn’t lovely and the folks not hospitable…its just that the clientele are more along the lines of wealthy retirees, stuffy businessmen and aging trophy wives..diversity is to say the least- stunted. Ah well. Wineries don’t always feel this way but this one unfortunately felt inaccessible, pretentious and just kind of sterile. The buildings were attractively designed, the grounds immaculate but there was no soul. Its the difference between staying at a bed and breakfast or a high end chain hotel. Cave B is similar to the hotel-lacks warmth, character but distracts/placates its guests with extravagance and luxury. I know a good number of folks go for this kind of shit..I just happen to not be one of them. They do a few things right- for one, they’re doing their damnedest to be sustainable in their practices. Everything is consciously constructed and organized to be eco- friendly- the buildings, the restaurant and the winery itself.
Wandering the grounds, Wes shot some photos. I tried to take it all in doing my best to keep an open mind and tamp down any discomfort. We are out of place- me with my tattoos and platinum hair, Wes with his pompadour and chipped tooth. We look like city folk…hmmm…not just city folk, maybe more like hoodlums that managed to steal a nice camera and get lost on their way to a dive bar. Dry desert heat is wonderful but after about twenty minutes we are both clawing to escape it. The patio at Tendrils restaurant looks out on the vines surrounding…a picturesque place to have a bite to eat. Their menu is described as seasonal and regional, the foods are all sustainable, organic and local whenever possible-herbs, veggies and fruits from the Sagecliffe orchards are included. We didn’t really have that fascinating of a lunch- I’m confident the dinner menu is more exciting. Wes had a burger accompanied by seasoned curly french fries. He seemed to like it- his only complaint being that the meat was overcooked (not so much medium rare). I had a Cobb salad that was above average- it had an abundance of bleu cheese, chicken and bacon (all ingredients that one can hardly go wrong with). What really won us over was the estates Riesling- sweet, smooth and refreshing. I felt the effects of my second glass as soon as we got back in the car- I fell asleep hard.
Cave B’s restaurant, Tendrils is very fortunate in that they have themselves one helluva fine lady for a chef. Everything Cave B lacks in spark and personality- Chef Shauna Scriver makes up for it. Almost to the point where Im at a loss for how she can thrive in an environment that seems to contrast so harshly with her as a person. Young, with short messy hair and tattoos…she is the single piece of greenery in a vast desert landscape. She belongs in San Francisco, New York (I would say Seattle but shes been there/done that)…big big cities will be lucky to have her talent in their kitchens. But until then, she’ll make Tendrils & Cave B interesting- and they need that.
Interview with Chef Shauna Scriver.
Tell me a little bit about your background?
Born and raised on Whidbey Island…from there I moved out to Edmonds and worked at Anthonys Homeport. I went to Culinary School in Scottsdale, AZ. For 2 years I was at Star of the Sea in San Diego then returned to Seattle and worked at Brasa as well as Flying Fish. Eventually I came out here, I was called by a friend of mine from Arizona that was Executive Chef at Tendrils at the time- he invited me out to be his sous chef. After he left, I was promoted into his position.
What inspired you to become a chef?
I’ve always had a love of cooking. My Mom had a big garden and I remember helping her in the kitchen growing up..making freezer jams, picking strawberries…
Foods you ate as a kid?
I was never a picky eater- I ate everything. When I was a kid, my mom would give both me and my sister $2 to spend on whatever we wanted at the grocery. I would always get an avocado and as much bay shrimp as I could afford. That’s what I would eat. My sister would get candy and I would get my avocado with bay shrimp.
Foods you dislike? Foods you love?
I honestly dislike nothing. I love cilantro..and corn..and clams..
What do you eat at home?
Tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwiches- that’s what I make when I’m not here.
Do you miss the city? What do you miss?
Yeah..I miss my friends and going out, seeing my sisters and I miss pho.
What would you like to do more of in the future with Tendrils?
I want to do more wine dinners…organize more of those with Freddie (winemaker @ Cave B).
Biggest challenge as a chef here?
The labor pool definitely..its difficult to find like-minded people.
Anything you won’t put on your menu?
Hmmm…I just always want it to be high quality and in season- that’s whats most important to me.
Favorite places to eat in Seattle?
Sea Garden, Brasa, Boka, Flying Fish (I love their whole fried fish)…I want to try Poppy and Taste @ SAM.
What do you do with your spare time?
I hike, visit Leavenworth, Chelan…go back home to Whidbey. Read- I’m studying up on wine right now.
Why local and sustainable?
The flavor! Just cooking ingredients when they’re at their best. Growing up in the NW, being around a garden…I know the difference in flavor when it comes to good ingredients.
What would you like to see change in the way that folks eat?
I want people to be more adventurous- to try new things!
Your favorite thing on the menu?
The Copper River salmon or the steak with salsa verde.
Most popular?
Pork is the most popular and beef of course..we are in Eastern Washington-people love their beef.
What would you be if not a chef?
Nothing comes to mind as far as careers. But what I would like to do is be a grocery checker for just a week so I can check out what people eat.
Savory or sweet?
Savory…I’m not big on sweets.
Folks you admire?
Alice Waters, Tamara Murphy (Brasa)…female chefs.
Kitchen tool you cant live without?
My fish spatula.
Best part of your work?
The view of course, and the four seasons out here…beautiful to see.
Last book you read?
Fast Food Nation
Proudest achievement?
Training people…I like that Ive had the opportunity to teach people a trade.
Any kitchen/restaurant/customer pet peeves?
Well done steaks…people order them all the time out here. I hate doing that to good meat.
June 13th, 2009 at 7:51 am
if she wants to be a grocery checker for a week I’ll trade jobs with her!