Its been ages since Ive had a good trout. Too long. I love the fish but rarely see it on menus and of course, when it is featured, the preparation is seldom to my liking…so I skip it. Lose lose. But wait, theres a win…theres finally at long last a win- Thursday night, Spring Hill brought me back to my beloved. Pan-fried rainbow trout served with cracked bulgur, celeries and caramelized fennel- the meal was flawless. The trout was remarkably supple, beautifully silken, the exterior thin and perfectly crisp. It sat upon a raft of tender nutty bulgur and a smattering of  gentle celeries and soft sweet fennel. I ate slow, real slow, taking the time to sip on my martini (one of the best dirty gin martinis Ive had in Seattle mind you) and revel in the appealing textures, the delicate flavors.

The restaurant itself? The design is all clean lines, muted woods…its Scandinavian modern but more friendly. Oh and one more thought on that- booths should be mandatory everywhere, at every single restaurant. Who doesn’t love a cozy alcove in which to enjoy their meal? Spring Hill loves a booth and I in turn love Spring Hill all that much more. And of course, to find that the folks behind a restaurant are as lovely as the space they have built and the food they produce is heartening. Chef Mark Fuller, his sweet sweet wife Marjorie & the rest of the staff have an immense warmth and kindness about them, it elevates Spring Hill from being just “great food” to being a truly great place.

Chef Mark Fuller’s accolades include: “Best New Chef 2009″- Food & Wine Magazine, “Top Ten Best Restaurants in America 2009″- Bon Appetit, “50 Best New US Restaurants”- Travel & Leisure Magazine. A busy man without a doubt, even so, he was generous enough to take time out for an interview.

How did Spring Hill come to be?
Opening a restaurant was the natural progression after working for Tom Douglas for several years. I felt like it was time to open my own place.

What inspired you to be a chef?
Kids love cooking. I was one of them. Like many kids, I would hang out in the kitchen with my mother while she cooked. I would try my hand at cooking while my parents were sleeping. Runny eggs, raw pancakes, things like that.

I started working in restaurants because I needed a job and entry-level restaurant jobs are pretty easy to get — dishwashing and bussing tables, etc. I cooked in restaurants for a few years and realized I did not know why or what I was doing. I did know, when it happened, I enjoyed making people happy with food.

I ended up in charge of a kitchen but didn’t understand the fundamentals of cooking. I needed to learn so I attended the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in Hyde Park, NY.

One of my first chefs that really inspired me to cook nice food was Jean-Marie Josselin on Kauai, Hawaii, at A Pacific Café. I’m not sure where he is now, but he really made we want to push forward and cook the best that I could.

Tell me a little bit about the menu?
Spring Hill is a modern American bistro located in the Pacific Northwest. Shellfish is what we represent. We also love our local foragers and farmers who enable us to start with delicious and wholesome ingredients.

Favorite part of your work? Least favorite?
I am super-lucky to have such a great staff at Spring Hill. My favorite is working alongside them. My least favorite part of the job is people who sit back and pass uneducated judgment on people that are doing it.

Your personal favorite items on the menu?
Right now it’s the apple salad that was inspired by Chef David Chang of Momofuku.

Most popular?
Right now, I’d have to say, I think it’s the apple salad.

Anything you won’t put on the menu? (whether it be because of moral reasons, basic dislike or otherwise)
Yes, pretty much the obvious, feedlot beef, Chilean sea bass, frozen Tyson chicken breasts etc.

What would you like to see change in the way that people eat?
Chef Eric Banh of Monsoon says it best, “Eat less, and eat good.” “Less” meaning stay away from the Cheesecake Factory, “Good” meaning wholesome food that is good for you and good for our environment.

Future plans for Spring Hill?
For Spring Hill we just want to be better at what we do every day.

What would you be if not a chef?
I’m not sure about that. If you asked me, “What would you wish you could be?” I would say Ari Gold (from the HBO show “Entourage”.) That guy makes it happen.

What do you eat at home? Do you cook?
Not much. Not too often.

Food favorites? Dislikes?
Cheeseburgers, fried chicken, pizza, a nice ribeye steak. Don’t like sweet potatoes or parsnips.

Favorite restaurants to eat at in Seattle?
Chef Tom Douglas’ Palace Kitchen has been my favorite for years.

How do you spend your free time?
Sleeping, eating, reading cookbooks, sometimes I go to the gym. Normal things.

Proudest achievement?
Opening Spring Hill with my wife Marjorie.

Folks you admire?
Jacques Pepin, Gray Kunz, Daniel Boulud, Jean-George Vongerichten, Charlie Trotter, Tom Douglas, Eric Tanaka, Michel Bras, Alfred Portale, Thomas Keller, Jean-Marie Josselin, Tom Colichio, Ferran Adria, David Bouley, Paul Kahan, Daniel Patteron, Paul Leibrandt, Dan Barber, David Chang, Wylie Dufresne, José Andrés, Elena and Juan Mari Arzak, and many more.

Pet peeves in the restaurant industry?
Negative attitudes. Cockiness.

Vices?
I have a couple, but it’s not chocolate or ice cream.

Savory or sweet?
Savory.

What’s behind the name “Spring Hill”?
The business district known as “the junction” in west Seattle is built on wetlands originally known as Spring Hill pond.