Archive for the ‘Reviews’ Category

Spring Hill, West Seattle

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

Chef Mark Fuller of Spring Hill Restaurant, Seattle. Its been ages since Ive had a good trout. Too long. I love the fish but rarely see it on menus and of course, when it is featured, the preparation is seldom to my liking…so I skip it. Lose lose. But wait, theres a win…theres finally at long last a win- Thursday night, Spring Hill brought me back to my beloved. Pan-fried rainbow trout served with cracked bulgur, celeries and caramelized fennel- the meal was flawless. (more…)

Smoked Salt.

Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009

Alder Smoked SaltAs an admitted salt fiend, one would’ve thought that the recent salt trend would have really struck my fancy. I recall when the mania erupted, folks were dizzy with the endless varieties- bacon salt, lavender salt, pink salt, black salt…blah blah blah. I wasn’t too impressed…in fact I kind of dismissed the craze as bullshit. I do love salt- deeply. Where some folks have a sweet tooth, I have a salt tooth- I just cant get enough..but really? How good can some of these salts be? In my head salt is salt. I like a good chunky sea salt- thats all, thats it- Im a simple broad. Well…that was all until I came across Alder Smoked Salt at the Pike Place Market. Jesus fucking God. The shit is delicious. It makes EVERYTHING TASTE LIKE BARBECUE- need I say more?

Drinking and Distilling with the Fellas at Dry Fly

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Dry Fly Gin Gallery

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“Booze for breakfast eh?” Karissa is squinting at me in the tender morning light, her coffee cup tucked between her knees as we begin our drive.
“Its lookin’ like it.” I’m sure my tone conveys that the idea is not exactly appealing at this hour. We’re headed out to Dry Fly Distillery where without a doubt there will be sampling. I’m trying not to think about it, instead focusing on the road and doing my best to keep my own hot cup from spilling onto my lap. Fortunately, we don’t make it to Spokane until after lunch. The drive wasn’t any longer than we had expected but our hunger certainly surprised us 3/4 of the way there. A Subway sandwich shop tucked inside a massive truck stop complex would suffice. It was for the best, to begin drinking on an empty stomach (before noon nonetheless) sounded disastrous. Black coffee & booze does not strike me as a good way to start the day (although Im sure plenty would disagree). (more…)

Kurtwood Farms, Vashon Island Wa.

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

Kurtwood FarmsIn the car then on a ferry- 20 minutes later, Brian and I  land in a place that seemingly time (or maybe just population increase) forgot…ie Vashon Island. Oh its fucking beautiful- woodsy jagged shoreline with rocky beaches, there’s a tiny town in there somewhere but take a second to browse the radio and you’ve missed it. Kurtwood Farms itself is gorgeous…open and organized, 13 acres of pretty pasture studded with a few rustic buildings that house all manner of magic. Mainly, theres the cabin where Kurt lives (which is in fact a historic landmark) next to a small building that is home to a commercial grade kitchen plus dining area (a loooong family style wood table). Besides those…I cant forget to mention the cheese room, the small milking barn, the stone oven, the elevated beds, other gardens, pigs, a couple dogs, Jersey cows/calfs etc. etc. Theres so much and all of it is lovely, quiet, simple- a landscape that begs to be captured in sepia tinted photos. (more…)

Making Cheese at Beechers

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

The city is dozing and I am deeply almost angrily envious. Here I stand rubbing the sleep out of my eyes, hair wild, my jacket pulled tightly around me. It is damn early, the streets abandoned…light has not even begun to touch the Seattle skyline. It could be two in the morning, the middle of the night…all I know is that it is dark, cool and post-apocalyptic quiet. Pike Place Market at this hour is forget-to-exhale stunning. It looks like a movie set or a postcard, a still life painting of the city. The stalls are empty- there’s no evidence of the heavy traffic, the shouting vendors, the truckloads of fresh cut flowers and fruit they will be jammed with in a matter of hours. (more…)

Delancey & the lovely Molly Wizenberg

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Molly WizenbergThe space, the food…Delancey is best described as pure, clean and deliciously simple. Yet, despite the austere inelaborate decor, it feels cozy here. It must be the proud presence of the warm brick oven that sets the tone…or the quirky photos on the walls, the basic furniture…maybe its the snug unpretentious neighborhood location. The softness of this pizzeria in conjunction with the cordial hospitality that owners Molly and Brandon effortlessly exude makes Delancey feel less like a rising star in the restaurant scene (which it certainly is) and more a local nook where its seems nearly intuitive to unwrap your scarf and stay awhile. (more…)

“Makin’ Bacon”…dinner at The Herbfarm

Sunday, November 8th, 2009

pig_diagramElaborate, rich and staggeringly decadent…I pictured dinner at The Herbfarm as such but I was still blown away by the reality of it. The whole bit, down to the tiniest details (fancy place cards, snacks as parting gifts) were unique, marvelously special. The theme of the dinner- “Makin’ Bacon” translated to all things pig. Swine cooked/prepared/showcased a dozen different ways and included in every course- from the initial cocktail to each last iota of dessert. Astounding. All of it was delicious, interesting but I can honestly say that I wont be eating pork again for awhile…it was too damn much. (more…)

The Herbfarm, Woodinville Wa.

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Chef Keith LuceThe ambiance is part Catholic church, a tad Christmas day & a pinch of what I imagine Buckingham Palace may be akin to. Christmas, not in the commercial tinsel/ tree sense but in that its comfortable, elegant and details have been put in place for the sake of a distinctive occasion. I love that feeling…its the embodiment of stepping out of dress shoes and padding around in stocking feet while dressed to the nines, the striking pronouncement of formality and underlying warmth. A consummate reverence echoes- this may very well be where folks come to pay homage…is this a house of culinary worship? Cuisine royalty? The Herbfarm widens my eyes, quiets me immediately. Walking in the door the urge to genuflect is almost compulsory. (more…)

Ray’s Boathouse, Ballard

Sunday, October 25th, 2009

Chef Peter Birk of Ray's BoathouseRay’s Boathouse is a true manifestation of the Northwest. With its unparalleled view of Shilshole Bay, its rich enduring history and an exceptional menu showcasing local food (with an emphasis on stellar NW seafood)- it represents well. Elegant and upscale, it feels special occasion oriented-  an ideal spot for celebration, romance and of course…impressive expense account dinners. While there, I noticed the prevalence of fat cats in the dining room (surely regulars)- they without a doubt take for granted the craft and style of this place. I, however, do not and hopefully never will. Rays should be fully appreciated and acknowledged for its efforts…it is visually and culinarily stunning. (more…)

Cantinetta, Wallingford

Sunday, October 18th, 2009

Chef Brian CartenutoIt’s one in the afternoon and we’re drinking bourbon. I came here to Cantinetta to have a chat with Chef Brian Cartenuto…5 minutes into the interview, he’s pouring Basil Hayden with a heavy hand.  I am, of course, charmed. This is how interviews should start. Hell, this is how everything should start- grocery runs, walks with the dog, yard work…no matter- pour the bourbon. Based on this action alone, I know that Brian and I are going to get along just fine. (more…)