Breitenbush Hot Springs, Detroit Or.

June 2nd, 2009

Breiten Bush Hot SpringsTuesday morning and I’m in route to pick up Karissa. The traffic signals are too bright, the racket of a city coming to life- too loud…I’m slowly, very slowly, adjusting to being awake. My eyes are sticky, my hair pulled into a half assed slept-in ponytail and the crease imprint of my pillow is still embedded pink on my cheek. Its a rough start that is easily forgotten the moment she gets into the car. The next four hours are lost to spirited conversation, eye watering gut wrenching laughs, coffee in Portland, Thai food off a highway exit and everything else that consistently reaffirms my absolute adoration for my best friend. We re headed to Breitenbush Hot Springs 4 to 5 hours South of Seattle, outside Detroit OR. Ive been coming to Breitenbush solo for the past 3 years. A unique escape – when the urgency to fall off the map for a bit hits, these hot springs catch me like a cradle. Tucked up in the mountains, Breitenbush Hot Springs boasts the atmosphere of a welcoming commune rather than a vacation get-a-way. Here, you wont find internet connection or cell phone reception, you wont find TV or radio- hell, even the electric usage is at a minimum. But what you will find is a quiet so deep that the rivers gurgle begins to sound like a hymn, air so crisp that it feels as though you’ve only experienced restricted breathing until this point and folks so peaceful, so kind that you feel your cynicism toward the human race weaken. Breitenbush is a glimpse into Utopian society.

Our hours upon arrival are spent reading, journal writing, taking walks along the river, sitting in the sun and sampling the hot springs. There are few sensations as soothing as the contact of water on bare skin without the nuisance of a suit. The hot springs are clothing optional- meaning folks are all gorgeously, beautifully naked. A few pools sit right up on the mountainside where the view of the river is awe inspiring- an operative oil painting. Soaking then sprawling out on the smooth rocks and letting the sun pull the water droplets off my warm skin is true bliss. We only took leave of these activities when we heard the bellow of the dinner bell. Food is served buffet style in the Main Lodge (this building sits central on the grounds surrounded by rental cabins and the springs). I have never been disappointed by the food here- everything served is vegetarian, organic and wholesomely good. Our dinner this particular night was Thai themed- spicy noodles and vegetable stir-frys, tempeh in rich curry, hot rice as well as soup and salad sides. After eating far too much and watching the sun take retreat behind the mountains we retired to our cabins. The options sleep wise- rustic cabins shared dorm style with a pair of bunk beds, pitching or renting a tent or a room unshared in the Main Lodge. I had only stayed in the cabins during past visits so this time I reserved a room. It was darling…tiny with a cozy soft bed, its location ideally slotted between the library and a bathroom (I think my room was called “The Orchid”). Karissa was set to stay in one of the cabins but ended up sharing my bed since we rarely get chances for sleep overs anymore. The next morning, I woke up around 6am for a solo dip in the hottest of the springs. I watched the sun rising cautiously, the dew evaporating off the grasses, the springs water steaming up around me…I had that pull in my throat- a moment where I felt a tremendous gratitude at having this be a moment of my life.

Sauna at Breiten BushBreakfast: towers of pancakes (banana-walnut, mint-coconut and vegan blueberry) with fresh whipped cream and maple syrup or berry topping, tempeh strips, fresh fruit, oatmeal and hot tea.  I love pancakes…the mint coconut was my favorite of the three. Shortly after breakfast we started heading for home morosely leaving the lush tranquility behind. Breitenbush always makes me want to change something in my habits to make my life feel more like the time I spent there. Sell the car? Trash my cell phone? Abandon my computer? Move into the mountains? These are the thoughts that gallop through my head as I desperately grasp to retain the magic of this place.

Karissa and Cherie at Breitenbush Hot SpringsTom Robinson, Events and Marketing director for the Springs took the time out for a chat with me during my visit. Hes wonderfully pleasant to speak with- an older, winsome, gentle man with sparkling blue eyes and the laid back demeanor of a cowboy. After our talk I’m disappointed that I’m not staying another day and spending more time in his company- I get a feeling that this is a man with stories to tell. He exudes warmth- in conclusion to our interview a hug seems more appropriate than a handshake. I have to do my best to maintain some semblance of professional standing and restrain myself from wrapping my arms around him.

A little history of Breitenbush?
The more recent history being that 30 years ago a group of people came and bought this when it was just a run down facility. Breitenbush had had its boom in the 20s 30s and 40s where folks sought the Springs for medical reasons. It was shut down in the 60s when business was down. Well, the new owners built it back up and considered themselves the guardians of the hot springs.  They built this community here with like minded people and agreed up on a credo. The mission being “To provide a save and potent environment where people can renew and evolve in ways they never imagined”.

Who owns it now?
It’s a worker owned cooperative. There are currently 30 owner/members. People have to work here for 1 year before they can become owner/members. At any given time we have between 55 and 75 people on staff dependent on the season- summer is our peak.

Why vegetarian food?
It’s always been vegetarian and organic. We believe in the principles of sustainability and all around health. Besides, everyone needs to eat more vegetables.

Future plans for Breitenbush?
We’re just always maintaining, adding, refining. This past winter we put a sprinkler system in the Main Lodge. We re completely off the grid here producing our own electricity. We use compact florescents and discourage any big draws on our electricity (the rules being no hair dryers and such). We use all geo-thermal heating and all our utilities are underground so only the purity of nature is visible. Just maintaining what we have going here and building on it while keeping in line with our values and credo- those are our goals, future plans..

Biggest challenges?
Man power and the money to get everything done. Winter can be specifically challenging- we re open year round so the roads need to be kept in good condition. We deal with some pretty heavy snow out here.

Has Breitenbush been hit by the recession?
Yes. Early in the year we saw our numbers drop but we rallied back up. Summer is our busy season and it seems like everything is back to normal. Maybe folks are looking for vacations more close to home? Or theyre stressed out and need to duck out and revive themselves? Who knows but its looking better. Overall we’re as cautious as everyone else.

Big events of the year?
Summer solstice is big here..we get about 400 -500 people. Its a 4 day event and our normal capacity is 135..but people camp and its a really good time..everyone helps out to make it work. Thanksgiving and New Years are big ones too and we also have women only weekends three times a year that are popular.

One Response to “Breitenbush Hot Springs, Detroit Or.”

  1. Kit Says:

    Cherie,

    What a charming article….you should look into travel mags….

    submit this one….I bet you’d have a great response and more assignments….

    Love you as always,

    Kit